OFF to Auz

So excited tomorrow i leave to the greatest couNtry oN Earth – Austalia – for a 6 week trip. Ill be startiNg the New movie (title still is iN the works) got a few ideas bouNciNg arouNd iN my head, probably will kNow the title of the movie by the eNd of this trip. BeeN miNdfully maNifestiNg the cast & feel for the film, for this upcomiNg trip iN particular:) ExcitiNg New cast members with pure iNteNtioNs & amaziNg surf ability is my ultimate goal. I waNNa make aNother movie filled with harmoNy & light to iNspire you all to get out there iNto the beautiful blue oceaN & explore:) Also, goNNa be stoppiNg over iN New ZealaNd for 11 days while im over there, visitiNg with RaNgi OrmoNd:) ON this trip Not briNgiNg my computer so i caN just focus oN the beauty of my surrouNdiNgs – so – might Not be postiNg to much oN the blog:( Hope you all have a beauty of a spriNg as we head iNto aNother summer iN the NortherN Hemisphere.

NANDA ORMOND – moNkey kiNg

To say that art takes a certaiN type of persoNality is aN uNderstatemeNt – ANd if i was to say NaNda has ‘IT’, he has it iN spades. Super fuNNy, very focused, aNd taleNt level through the roof ( or top of yurt )! This is RANGI OrmoNds older brother, who just so happeNs to be the sibliNg of MY favorite humaN ever RaNgi. Apple doesNt fall far from the tree for the ORmoNds i guess, both brothers are just amaziNg people, aNd beauty to kNow them:) Next moNth ill be visitiNg NaNda & RaNgis home iN New ZealaNd which is featured iN this little short. SO excited to get there!!

So pumped oN Wade Goodall, if you kNow Wade, you love Wade. Excited to be liNkiNg up with this absolute auzzie legeNd wheN i get over to Auz Next week. GoNNa be part of the Next movie if all the stars aligN correctly:) Stoked to get Wade goiNg, such a woNderful kiNd persoN aNd – of course – huge surfiNg taleNt. This is how im choosiNg my cast for the Next movie, Wade ticks all the boxes. Wadeoooohh has beeN a pioNeer for the Auzzie free surf world for over a decade:) RESPECT

FouNd this oN COASTALWATCH, which is like the SURFLINE of australia. FuNNy write up oN my boy after the huge edit he dropped ‘BALI CULTURAL EXPERIENCE’, Da Rookie:)

 

YEAH + BROWN MICROWAVE TELEVISION – THALIA surf

My favorite shop iN LaguNa Beach came out with a cool product they desigNed called the “YEAH” wetsuit. So excited to see how they weNt out aNd did this cool wetty – Not to maNy low key wetsuits out there aNymore with a miNimal look to em:) They were smart aNd gave KNosty a suit, The KING of blackies was sportiN the rubber for parts of the wiNter, i happeNed to be there oNe of those days aNd got this footage. ENjoy a fuN lil day dowN at Blackies with Al & the YEAH wetsuit!

CHECK THE WETTY RIGHT HERE!!!!

 Couple screeNies from the short…  BROWNMICROWAVE televisioN’s go fast outta the shop!  Caught YEAH wetsuit model GraNt Noble hammeriN a hamNcheese betweeN surfs:)  ONe of the haNdful of fuN days we had dowN at blackies this wiNter. 

🙂

TROY ELMORE – Mollusk Shaper Profile

BeeN a really slow wiNter for waves here iN Cali – to ease the paiN it sure was great timiNg to do this profile oN my buddy & all arouNd sweet guy – Troy Elmore. It took a few moNths to shoot it due to poor wave quality, but we got the job doNe aNd we thiNk it turNed out a Nice represeNtatioN of Troy & his philosophy oN surfiNg & shapiNg:) I really eNjoyed touchiNg upoN Troys skateboardiNg taleNt, aNd the parallels betweeN skatiNg & ridiNg a twiNNy. Troy has a huge heart aNd is a hard workiNg – focused shaper – that has really started to pop some extremely Nice boards past couple years, so stoked that he is startiNg to get some recogNitioN & sliNgiN lots of boards rouNd towN. If you get a chaNce check em out at MOLLUSK iN saNFraN, Silverlake, or VENICe.

COuple screeNies & shots from the project:) Had so much fuN with Troy, aNd look forward to workiNg with him iN the future.

ThaNks Troy & Mollusk for the opportuNity I feel blessed to work with both of ya’s:)

SHOP TALKS – THe Froghouse NB

Hilarious part 3 of the Shop Talks series preseNted by my frieNds at VISSLA, video was put together the great BriaN Elliott! The boys at the Froghouse, i must say, liviNg Next door, are really like that everyday:) Its a complete shit show/yardsale but iN a good way:) TK & Beho are good frieNds of miNe aNd they beeN holdiNg it dowN for like 49years, truly amaziNg surf shop, oNe of the last of its kiNd. Ive beeN poppiN iN there for 20 years Now gettN boards & gear, so stoked oN this short, also stoked to have a small cameo & wave iN it:) Super hilarious stuff!!

ROOKIE – Bali Cultural ExperieNce

Holy Shit this is the best thiNg ive seeN iN a loooooooooooNg time:) So proud to see oNe of my favorite people aNd surfers really startiNg to make his mark oN surfiNg. Ari has come a loNg way – his celestial taleNt is beyoNd alluriNg – Not oNly a smooth stylish surf master, he is quite a fuNNy bloke!! WatchiNg Ari stroll arouNd Bali iN a BINTANG siNglet is about as fuNNy as Bill Murray iN Cattyshack~~!!! Wow, doNt kNow what to say besides, eNjoy eNjoy eNjoy!! So fresh to see a surfer Not takiNg himself to seriously:) Love this kid!!

STAB MAG did a little write up oN “The Birth of the Tripod”. CHECK IT OUT HERE!!! Alt Alt Alt Alt Alt rights for all surfiNg humaNs!!

WheN the KING speaks, you should listeN.

THE MATADOR madcat RobiN Kegel here iN Newport Beach, shot by my buddy TOSHI!!

CaNt wait to see this!! Yeah Cyrus looks amaziNg!!

FORMER 29.99 just dropped aNd damN its good!!

The amaziNg beNefits of the olive tree leave extract!! I got me some:)

Also, the MORINGA leaf is a beauty of a tree!! I got me oN dis as well:)

VISSLA photo jourNal eNtry – ‘Birth of the Tripod’

My frieNds at VISSLA just did a little photo jourNal eNtry with Derrick DisNey’s sectioN iN THE ZONE surf movie oN their website:) GO TO STORY HERE!!

Derrick and I had been on a few trips and were starting to collect some footage for my upcoming film, THE ZONE. I love the fact that Derrick, for the most part, rides boards that he had hand shaped from start to finish. Above that, his freethinking way of experimenting with different equipment is what is really intriguing about Diz. This one board, in particular, was a 7-foot single fin that was very versatile and a great board to have on a trip. Whether it was 1 foot or 10 foot, this board seemed to be a “go-to” board for Derrick.

It was a prior trip to Baja I began to notice that there was something more that this board had, but what was it? I couldn’t figure it out. Derrick surfed the board extremely well, and after multiple surfs it seemed as though none of the clips were that exciting to me. At that time I was just starting to experiment with finless surfing, it was fresh, new, and exciting to me. To hug the water and stay compressed throughout a ride was a new rush, a completely different high to wave riding. On this trip I had seen Diz do a couple swooping bottom turns that really caught my attention, but right after he would return right back up to a full vertical traditional approach on the wave. Then it hit me, maybe if Diz stayed compressed while going through these turns the effect might be something different. I brought up the idea after a couple surfs, kind of like a surf coach, enthusiastically explaining my idea to Derrick, he agreed, and gave it a spin the following day. This was it!! We were just laughing at how much fun it was, Diz really enjoyed it, and I felt the board just came to life that session! Because of three points of contact on the deck of the board, that was the beginning of what we coined, “Tripoding”.

Fast forward, to our trip to Jeffrey’s Bay. Derrick had brought 4 boards, and the trusty old 7’0 single fin was one of them. After a week of fun mid size surf, mostly riding a fish, a swell hit. This was the “Blue Moon” swell of the winter; the town was buzzing with excitement and anticipation. Derrick and I both knew that to go out on a fish would be a problem; it was time for the 7’0 to do her duty. That Night we talked about our prior trip into Baja, and how much fun Tripoding was, it was on! Every time it got over 6 feet, it was tripod time. Everyone in the Bay was just loving Derrick’s unique approach using the Tripod, by the end of our stay there they were believers. I knew we had embarked on a New approach to wave riding, it was quite a life changing trip for the both of us. Derrick’s section in the movie is one of my favorite parts in the making of the film, a collab between surfer and filmer that I will Never forget.

If you havNt seeN the film yet it is available oN VIMEO oN DemaNd & iTuNes as well:)

BriNg oN the memes!!!!!

88 – suN cream

CaliforNia isNt the oNly place wave deprived this year, australia has beeN fairly doormeNt as well. ByroN aNd the east coast just got their first real swell the other day, aNd the boys were out iN full force at the spot. New edit from the softspacemaN crew is fresh off the press aND ready for viewiNg!! MaN, caNt wait to get out there Next moNth!!

Brycey at a uNkNowN locatioN = THANK you!!

Some more Asher from last year, twiNNy master:)

KNeeloz

The city i grew up oN the friNge of LA couNty duriNg the 80s was a hotbed for kNeeboardiNg. Lots of my elders I looked up to rode the craft aNd were true loyalist to the cause. Now, almost a lost artform, kNeeboardiNg will always have a small piece of the pie iN the surf world. Because of its user frieNdly appeal, I thiNk it’ll Never die!! KNeeboarders doNt like the spotlight, they remaiN iN the shadows, which is cool to me:) Check this edit & trip out oN the “half meN” still pursuiNg the practice.

ANother ziNger by ZION here, woh the boog is also aN overlooked part of surfiNg, Never gettiN proper respect it deserves. Love the boogs & this edit is just amaziNg! What a crazy wave!

KNost put oN aN epic eveNiNg this past weekeNd showcasiNg a lifetimes work of THE CAMPBELL bros. These are THE boNzer boys!! Stuck to there passioN throughout decades of surfiNg, curreNtly beiNg praised for their iNNovative desiGN. Full circle, so stoked theyre gettiNg such recogNitioN:) Their motto is, “Be MiNdful”, which is a home ruN iN my opiNioN. No your path, aNd stick to it!!

Positive memes are the future. BeMiNdful:)

🙂