VISSLA photo jourNal eNtry – ‘Birth of the Tripod’

My frieNds at VISSLA just did a little photo jourNal eNtry with Derrick DisNey’s sectioN iN THE ZONE surf movie oN their website:) GO TO STORY HERE!!

Derrick and I had been on a few trips and were starting to collect some footage for my upcoming film, THE ZONE. I love the fact that Derrick, for the most part, rides boards that he had hand shaped from start to finish. Above that, his freethinking way of experimenting with different equipment is what is really intriguing about Diz. This one board, in particular, was a 7-foot single fin that was very versatile and a great board to have on a trip. Whether it was 1 foot or 10 foot, this board seemed to be a “go-to” board for Derrick.

It was a prior trip to Baja I began to notice that there was something more that this board had, but what was it? I couldn’t figure it out. Derrick surfed the board extremely well, and after multiple surfs it seemed as though none of the clips were that exciting to me. At that time I was just starting to experiment with finless surfing, it was fresh, new, and exciting to me. To hug the water and stay compressed throughout a ride was a new rush, a completely different high to wave riding. On this trip I had seen Diz do a couple swooping bottom turns that really caught my attention, but right after he would return right back up to a full vertical traditional approach on the wave. Then it hit me, maybe if Diz stayed compressed while going through these turns the effect might be something different. I brought up the idea after a couple surfs, kind of like a surf coach, enthusiastically explaining my idea to Derrick, he agreed, and gave it a spin the following day. This was it!! We were just laughing at how much fun it was, Diz really enjoyed it, and I felt the board just came to life that session! Because of three points of contact on the deck of the board, that was the beginning of what we coined, “Tripoding”.

Fast forward, to our trip to Jeffrey’s Bay. Derrick had brought 4 boards, and the trusty old 7’0 single fin was one of them. After a week of fun mid size surf, mostly riding a fish, a swell hit. This was the “Blue Moon” swell of the winter; the town was buzzing with excitement and anticipation. Derrick and I both knew that to go out on a fish would be a problem; it was time for the 7’0 to do her duty. That Night we talked about our prior trip into Baja, and how much fun Tripoding was, it was on! Every time it got over 6 feet, it was tripod time. Everyone in the Bay was just loving Derrick’s unique approach using the Tripod, by the end of our stay there they were believers. I knew we had embarked on a New approach to wave riding, it was quite a life changing trip for the both of us. Derrick’s section in the movie is one of my favorite parts in the making of the film, a collab between surfer and filmer that I will Never forget.

If you havNt seeN the film yet it is available oN VIMEO oN DemaNd & iTuNes as well:)

BriNg oN the memes!!!!!

88 – suN cream

CaliforNia isNt the oNly place wave deprived this year, australia has beeN fairly doormeNt as well. ByroN aNd the east coast just got their first real swell the other day, aNd the boys were out iN full force at the spot. New edit from the softspacemaN crew is fresh off the press aND ready for viewiNg!! MaN, caNt wait to get out there Next moNth!!

Brycey at a uNkNowN locatioN = THANK you!!

Some more Asher from last year, twiNNy master:)

KNeeloz

The city i grew up oN the friNge of LA couNty duriNg the 80s was a hotbed for kNeeboardiNg. Lots of my elders I looked up to rode the craft aNd were true loyalist to the cause. Now, almost a lost artform, kNeeboardiNg will always have a small piece of the pie iN the surf world. Because of its user frieNdly appeal, I thiNk it’ll Never die!! KNeeboarders doNt like the spotlight, they remaiN iN the shadows, which is cool to me:) Check this edit & trip out oN the “half meN” still pursuiNg the practice.

ANother ziNger by ZION here, woh the boog is also aN overlooked part of surfiNg, Never gettiN proper respect it deserves. Love the boogs & this edit is just amaziNg! What a crazy wave!

KNost put oN aN epic eveNiNg this past weekeNd showcasiNg a lifetimes work of THE CAMPBELL bros. These are THE boNzer boys!! Stuck to there passioN throughout decades of surfiNg, curreNtly beiNg praised for their iNNovative desiGN. Full circle, so stoked theyre gettiNg such recogNitioN:) Their motto is, “Be MiNdful”, which is a home ruN iN my opiNioN. No your path, aNd stick to it!!

Positive memes are the future. BeMiNdful:)

🙂

Hotdogger magaziNe – FraNce

Hotdogger Mag is a freNch creative mag that touches upoN the surf culture across the globe, aNd the spaces where those iNdividuals who work iN it live. They were kiNd eNough to come by the hobbit house here iN Newport Beach all the way from FraNce & shoot a few photos for the story. Was a fuN little afterNoooN exposiNg myself to the cool little publicatioN, showiNg them my domaiN:) Stoked for the love thaNk you HOTdigittydog mag.

So excited to get out to this wave pool here iN Texas, good ole USA! Leah DawsoN is the ultimate subject to see the possibilities of this taNk & what caN be doNe oN a siNgle fiN!! Pretty fuN little short, go get em Leah!!!

Thought this was aN iNterestiNg coNcept “Traffic lights” iN the fog, for a photo story – by GermaN fotographer Lucas ZimmermaNN, via PetaPixel

Day Dream Surf Shop – What Youth

Costa Mesa is THE mecca of the surf iNdustry aNd to fuel the right miNded creatives who desigN all our surf gear is a New surf domaiN called “DayDreamSUrfSHop”. My good frieNds Kyle KeNNelly & his woNderful girlfrieNd Becca had a dream, & made it happeN:)

I watched Kyle graduate from Berkley get a degree iN fiNaNce & go oN to workiNg a skitzy full time job with mega baNk CHASE after fiNishiNg iN SaNFraNcisco couple years back. He was miserable, puttiNg iN like 10-15hour days, rarely haviNg aNy time to do what he loved, surf. I remember him talkiNg about leaviNg the job aNd moviNg back dowN to SoCal to opeN a surf club/ coffee shop, aNd that is what he did:)

Love watchiNg frieNds pursue their dreams, aND makiNg them a reality. Surf accessories, womeNs clothiNg, home frequeNcies, & a great arraNgemeNt of boards there as well. You caN pay a moNthly fee to joiN the club, aNd give boards like ANdrieNi, Gato Heroi, Troy Elmore, Deepest Reaches, & Liddle boards a spiN, truly aN amaziNg shop & beautiful owNers!! So stoked to have a New beaN shop iN towN:)

3 for SuperSuNday

Huge day iN America its SuperBowl SuNday! Before the game I raN across these 3 receNt shorts that came out that really caught my eye.

First is surf guru yoga spiritual hero Gerry Lopez explaiNiNg the parallels betweeN surfiNg & yoga, as well as touchiNg upoN the early days of Uluwatu iN Bali. PatagoNia always hits it outta the park, touchiNg oN eNviroNmeNtal aspects & deeper meaNiNgs to our culture. Nice cameos & surfiNg from Mob & Rasta as well – just to add some more stoke to the piece. Nice job NathaN Myers really eNjoyed it:)

Woh this oNe was really fuN for me to watch!! With the oversaturizatioN of the SHortboard world lately its Nice to see some flow oN a mid leNgth stick for a chaNge:) TorreN MartyN shows the way through El Salvador, a couNtry ive beeN frothiNg to visit some day!

YEsssss – last short is from the the miNd of Tyler HatzikiaN – the LA uNdergrouNd log extraordiNiar!! Fark love his surfiN always easy oN the eyes. Masterful surfer & great shaper thaNK GOD for surfers like Tyler:)

IslaNd Earth

My buddy Cyrus SuttoN has beeN workiN oN this project for probably 3 years, he is a true lover of film makiNg, aNd it always shows iN his work:) Really excited to see this oNe wheN it hits the uNiverse!! DOWN WITH MONSANTO AND ALL GMO’ssszzzzz FUK EM!! Go get em Cy!!

Classic story!! Absolutely amaziNg!!! Bruce Gold has managed to survive for almost 50 years in Jeffreys Bay without having a job. He is among the last of a dying breed of surfers who have dedicated their entire lives to riding waves. Loved Loved this short eNjoy!! Almost remiNds me of a regular footed justiN adams:)

LOVE & LIGHT 2kseveNteeN

Australia Days – Mollusk

MissiN Auz right Now. Waves beeN NoNexisteNt up til few days ago, also New swells oN the way for us here iN CaliforNia. Best of all, lookiN like we got lots of drought relief, so thats sweet!! But all this dowN time got me to thiNkiNg about my time iN auz, just surfN & shootN the pass with my m8’s:)

ViNNie Steele is sooooo uNdergrouNd, but i just loved his surfiNg, he also rides MYC boards which is my good buddy Yeates. Well, Ari is just Ari ( few waves oN 88 & theN a Vouch 5’6 Hull), & Ozzie (oN a 5’10 Joel Fitzgerald twiNNy) is a liviNg legeNd so i thought it was a Nice little eNder to a beautiful couple days shootiNg iN ByrON bay:) ENjoy & thaNk you Mollusk Surf SHop for always beiNg there for me yew!

We called this move “THE ATLAS”. ROOKIECULT

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OMG got a kick outta this oNe:)

My good buddy Wiley Archbold is oNly 21 years youNg, hes beeN loviNg shootiNg surfiNg started couple years back maybe. HEres his first feature leNgth offeriNg “COMPILATION”, some fuN loggiN rouNd SoCal with all his frieNds, so kewl.

HEres that DIRECT hit were gettN this weekeNd, they’re calliN it “MONSTROUS” Woh buckle up SoCal. Have fuN everyoNe see you at da beach!!

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raiNyDayz

4 cities – RyaN Burch at home outta the ‘Derby House’ – surfN with his buddy Diz N showiN us his dwelliNg habitat. Good stuff!! Also, my taleNted aNd good frieNd Levi Prairie did all the tuNes for the piece. It is Always Nice to see Burch iN froNt of the camera which is kiNda a rarity, hes pretty dowN to earth aNd simple, refreshiNg:) Shot iN aNd arouNd ENciNitas – a truly IcoNic surf city that i love.

Some more Burch spriNkle iN sum OZZIE N you got gold!!!

4cities of OZZIE at his New home iN byroN!! ANother city i love:) No woNder these beautiful towNs are produciNg such positive eNergy.

My buddies JimmyJazz, Salsa & JRad just put out couple New edits.

NEW MASON EDIT YAHHHHHHHHH!!!

GettN pumped for some waves to come here to califorNia. BeeN, like, the, worst, wiNter, ever, for, waves. Period. ANother. Period.

Not sure if this guy is eveN humaN – very straNge.

goals

Trolled

LEgeND!! MIKE DOYLE, oNe of my favorites:) SurfiNg IcoN.

AmaziNg times we live iN!!  LOVE & LIGHT  – – – – – –  iN  – – – – – –  2017 –   UNI-Verse

DISCLOSURE is comiNg – This doco is just miNd blowiNg! Must watch for those who waNt to be awakeNed or who already are. UNIVERSE.

SOFT SPACEMAN VOL1

Is Now up oN VIMEO wohh! The worlds first softtop movie 32MINs of softNess. Shot by Brodie JacksoN, RyaN Heywood, & myself:) RyaN & I did the edit together, first half was RyaN, secoNd half of movie was me. Such a fuN project, showed it the prem Night of THEZONE iN bruNswick Heads Aus back iN July of 2016. ENjoy, aND get out there!!

ANother Xmas iN da books. Sum web humour. HappyNewYear!!

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BeNNyHill theme soNg!!

BeNNYHill

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Blair CoNkliN skim lord from LaguNa to Newps, loviN da skiM movemeNt!

Sam StiNNett Soulag legeNd skim lord “BeastMode”

11:11 NewYearDay – joiN IN.screen-shot-2016-12-31-at-10-01-06-am