It’s just like the old adage goes – “HOME is a where the heart is” – as much as i would rather live somewhere else, you cant take the California outta me. Colin Moran is the same. Colin has become a good friend to me and he lives in the same region as I. We are both at a crossroads, it seems, in our surfing lives. So making this short was a breeze. Colin is very much on his way to world class surfing abilities, as i watch him surf in this short, im just realizing that the wave quality around home is about as challenging (due to lack of quality) as hes surfed in about a year. Colins been hitting the globe chasing the worlds best waves and I cant wait to see all the work hes been doing. Anyhow, enjoy and check out DBlancs killer shades!
In celebration of 88 day (August 8 / 8/8/18) im releasing to you SEPTIC TANK. A 10min trip out reptilian conspiracy chem trailing journey through the bowels of California. This is our first short ever out of the good ol US, so pretty special to me. Stoked to get some waves in this one and be on the other side of the lense for a coupla:)
Been on a bender! Just got back from Bali shooting for the new movie!! Was there for that mega swell and ended up getting 3 swells in 10 days. Summer is in FULL heat here, and chasin waves all day when theyre up, looks like lots of hurricane activity in the coming week!! Finding surfs in between.
Movies comin along and if you’re reading this, you are hard core! Thank you for hanging in there with me as my posting on the blog has seriously diminished over the past year:( Man, INSTAGRAM has really got us all stuck swiping all day. Hope there is still some old school people out there looking at blogs and full shorts not on their phones.
couple grabs of OZZIE last week in the Buket
Watch surf comedian ROOKIE ‘ari browne’ get transported to Morocco with help from shaper Josh Keogh. Spent 16 days here in Morac, highly recommend it to you if yah love right hand point breaks:) Reminded me alot of Baja but with better roads into all the surf spots. @soularch_777 SIMO was a hell guide getting us into the right spots around the Taghazout zone.
The concept was to shape a bunch of finless boards and let ari loose on em! Think we accomplished that – also had guest narrator Vaughn Blakey do a few side sound bites for more flavor. Love Ari and how NOT serious he is about surfing. Tremedous talent and huge heart. Enjoy Portal.
Lots and lots of 88 activities poppin off, just got back from a 7 week trip there! The waves in Auz are so rich that its easy to shoot so enjoy the many other fruits of labor put together by the 88 crew:) Seems like a new vid comes out every week, but man, we love to make em so luv em or hate on em, they comin like a freight train straight into your computer! I was fortunate enough to sneak a few waves in on the action when i was there May til July.
FULL 36 MIN FEATURE by Brodie Jackson SLUG SOFTSPACEMAN VOL2!!
4th of July weekend in SoCal is a huge celebration of independence! We residence also were quite pleased to get a nice south swell that hit our window. Boneyards in Doheny Beach lit up and Levi Prairie and Andy Nieblas were kind enough to entertain the crowds with some extreme loggin! Check it out below via Mollusk Surf shop yew!!
Was in auz for 2 months, just got home sorry for the not posting but ima try and keep it going ! Couple grabbys from the epic day down at the yard:)
Off to Australia in a couple days, winter is starting over there and all the crowds are gone, just how i like it! In the meantime . . . was rummaging around my desktop found lots of images from morocco – for a project shot with the Rook called Portal – should be out soon. Heres a little peak into a coupla 35mm images that i just went through.
My buddy Kai Hing was there right as we were leaving, loved alot of is this edit, the sound and feel were really making me miss my time in morac. HEre is 6Dimension#Realm9
Woh was really lovin this pool. Lots more to play with, KSWave looks like a bore compared to this in a way. JOB & Gravy having a hell time in texas.
Gotta hang with one of my good friends and teammates Derrick Disney at Burchs shaping bay outside of Oceanside CA. Derrick has flown under the radar for years now, not to many people know that he is quite the accomplished glasser. As well as glassing his shapes have been getting better and better as he soaks in all the Burch Ju-ju and starts to morph his fishes into very similar designs as his mentor/the master Ryan B. Hard to get Diz to do audio or awkward kinda speaking stuff, but i know him well enough to get it out of him. Its easy to talk when it comes from the heart. And everything Derrick does comes from his heart. Nice to see some of Dizs weird flextails the past couple years, stoked to put it together for the VIssla guys and show you what i came up with! Derrick is surfin south OC Ca, GLand, and NorthernBaja.
couple 35mm shots i got from the shaping day. ILFORD XP2
Diz in his new DBlanc’s
RC stuff really cracks me up:) Just ran into this one.
This ZAF creation just might be the best thing ive ever seen. The innovative JIMBO.
Winter in Santa Barbara usually means heeps of swells and lots of right handers. Last couple years ive been gone havnt had the chance to make it up there, but this year ive made a few trips. This trip in particular, i got a chance to finally meet and shoot with local hero Trevor Gordon. I must say, he surfs better than i thought, truly a wizard. His good buddy Simon Murdoch was out with him, and damn, he was quite an impressive surfer as well. The swell wasnt anything to write home about, but we made the best of it. Such a slow season for California, it was just nice to have a little bump out there to get a wiggle in. Thanks Mollusk for the stoke, enjoy Ocean Song:)
Its been a fun ride getting our first shipment of 88 boards here in California. If any of you have bought a board from us here in the US – we thank you from the bottom of our hearts:) Our next shipment gets here right at the start of summer in June so ill keep you posted on that. Til then, ive been collecting clips here and there of my friends riding them, and we are lucky enough to have an Icon like Burch riding the boards, he’s on one of our 8;0s here. The teaser ‘bung’ is a prelude to a larger mini movie called ‘Septic Tank’ which will be coming out soon, shot entirely in the California region.
Grew the beard out for winter warmth – Took it down yesterday. Off to Hawaii on Monday for some upcoming projects – Pretty excited to get some VitaminD up me:)
couple kewl youtube clips caught my eye this week.
Lee-Ann – so cool : )
Love how plastic rubbish awareness is really starting to get into the public consciousness! The time has come that we start to clean it up. I think the most challenging part will be bringing this to 3rd world countries whom have no education the effects its having on our ecosystem.
Wow, check this! Hempcrete and hemp insulations.