This week was my first encounters with what has rumored to be said as “The real drifter”. Justin is a true underground legend in the making here in California. Living extemely humble and avoiding the spotlight, he resides in the Dana Point area for his whole life and surfs down at Salt Creek mostly. The time had come for both he and i to connect on a artistic level and it finally happened this week after I ran into him at a party and asked him to be in my next film. We shot all week down at his spot with some amazing conditions and of course great non competitive style surfing .
It truly was an eye opening experience and had a blast meeting one of my favorite surfers and being able to document it and eventually bring it to you – the surf junkies.
Here is a shot of Justin in Baja Mexico revealing his approach which to this point is somewhat of folklore. Not sure who took the picture but it is truly a beautiful rendering of Justin and his pure approach to the slide.
Ryan Thomas has been long time friends with Justin and has great footage which has never been released. HEre is a trailer about 2-3 years old that has Justin & some other rad surfers in it. Man its a shame when footage gets lost in a hard drive. Maybe some day RT will release some of it and stoke us out.